2.2.7.5 Measurement Method

This method is commonly used when the darts have to remain in the same seam line and the width of the darts can be divided into two or three darts (Cooklin 1999; Le Pechoux and Ghosh 2004; Crawford 2005; Gupta et al. 2006). The method of shifting the darts is described wherein the darts at the waistline are manipulated.

• • The front bodice pattern is traced onto a new paper leaving the space of the dart which is to be divided as shown in Figure 2.16.
• • Measure the gap left for the dart and divide into two halves by using dressmaker’s tape. Dressmaker’s tape is a strip of paper folded to give a firm, straight edge.
• • The two halves would give the dart space on each dart.
• • Locate the position for two darts on the waistline.
• • Now, keep the section between the dart and the center front of the original sloper unchanged. This part is called the center panel or center section.
• • The two dart points need to be located so that the distance between the two darts is 1″. • Draw the guidelines for darts as indicated by a dotted line toward the bust circle.

FIGURE 2.16

Measurement method.

• The tips of the darts are located toward the bust circle. Draw the dart legs and complete the dart on the pattern.